Buenos Aires mi amor

This February, Buenos Aires was calling. This was more than just a visit; it was a homecoming. My family hails from Argentina, having settled here over a hundred years ago. I speak fluent Castellano, and as a child, I spent my summers in Argentina, soaking in the culture, rhythm and slang and making it my own. This was my first visit in 28 years, and I fell in love with the city all over again.

I was instantly greeted with its Latin energy, the tantalizing aroma of freshly baked empanadas floating out of bakeries, and the seductive feel of tango etched on walls and on the streets. Our home base was the elegant CasaSur Palermo, a chic boutique hotel in one of the city's trendiest neighborhoods, Palermo (although it was bittersweet to know it was the same hotel where singer Liam Payne parted).

We began our journey with a dose of history at the Catedral de San Martín, a solemn and grand space steeped in Argentine heritage. Just a stone's throw away is the Casa Rosada, the iconic pink presidential palace, and I couldn't help myself from singing out.

"Don't Cry for Me, Argentina!" (Remember the movie "Evita" where Madonna sang this song from the balcony of the Casa Rosada?)

From there, we wandered into the Solar de French Gallery, a hidden gem filled with local artisan crafts and unique finds.

Sweet indulgence followed at La Vaca Lechera, a boutique dedicated to Argentina’s legendary dulce de leche and alfajores. Each bite is a symphony of rich, creamy caramel balanced by delicate pastry—pure heaven for any sweet tooth - and my absolute weakness...(Havana and Cachafaz!)

San Telmo’s cobbled streets lured us next, where antique shops and tango dancers brought a nostalgic charm. Then came La Boca, an explosion of color and passion. The vibrant El Caminito felt like a walk through a painter’s dream, with its brightly painted houses and street performers showcasing Argentina’s most famous dance, the Tango.

One can climb to the top floor balcony of the Cachafaz Caminito store and stand next to "Lionel Messi" waving a victorious World Cup 2022 win! Great photo op!

A visit to Templo Libertad, Argentina’s oldest synagogue, was a beautiful and personal experience - this is where my parents got married in 1967.

We then went next door to the grandeur of Teatro Colón, one of the world’s most stunning opera houses. We were fortunate to watch a live rehearsal—the orchestra's sound enveloping the theatre's old elegance were just mesmerising!

We saw the most spectacular tango show at La Faena Hotel that evening. The intimate red-velved 1920's setting in the El Caberet room started with an Argentine dinner and then followed by El Rojo, Argentina's most celebrated Tango show Rojo Tango - the dramatic Tango performances and sultry melodies left us spellbound. I can't recommend this enough!

No trip to Buenos Aires is complete without a visit to La Recoleta Cemetery, a hauntingly beautiful labyrinth of ornate mausoleums, including the final resting place of Eva Perón.

Just nearby is El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a former theater turned bookshop that is a literary paradise. Its gilded balconies and crimson stage now frame endless shelves of books.

Palermo Soho wall art district painted a different story of modern creativity and political expression, each mural a voice in the city’s ongoing dialogue between past and present.

Our driver made a little detour in Belgrano and took us to Pasaje Malasia - a small quite road lined with mansions that hold more than 80 years of history that combine French, colonial, Tudor and even Gothic styles.

We wrapped up our adventure with a tour of River Plate Stadium, a must-visit for any football fan eager to feel the pulse of Argentina’s passion for the sport. I must admit that I have a soft spot for Boca Juniors—and we did indeed have tickets to see them play against Rosario Central, an experience we were eagerly anticipating. Unfortunately, heavy rains that night forced us to miss the match.

Buenos Aires is more than a city; it’s a rhythm, a heartbeat, a love affair between history and the present. And like any great tango, it left us utterly enchanted, already dreaming of our next dance with this captivating metropolis.

I can not end this post without mentioning my three most glorious Argentine delectables: Alfajores and dulce de leche de Havana and Argentine wine, naturally.... Thank you to our most fantastic travel consultant, who not only placed all my favourite things in my hotel room but also created our dream holiday! Follow Eleonora on Boutique de Viajes

For a touch of my shopping experience in Buenos Aires - read here